Ford Ranger i-beam center link steering

So we got this here 89 Ford Ranger. Relevant existing front suspension upgrades include: custom extended i-beams, custom radius arms, D44 front differential, King 12" shocks with remote reservoir, and 16" Boyd Coddington mega offset wheels. There Is no Front sway bar.

Factory ball joint steering is is all fukockted, and this Ranger in stock trim suffers bump steer. We've oped for a test drive and some further investigation. Its already common knowledge that the i-beam design, from Henry's decedents, have active camber change all the way through wheel travel. Before I get the truck moving, with the shifter in Park, try steering lock to lock and notice each fender(the whole truck) lift from the horizon with each spin of the steering wheel. This jacking action owes credit to the ridiculous offset in the alloy wheels. Scrub radius is f'd. Wheels selection can easily correct this problem. This ranger drives well, its solid and tracks strait. Shocks are well matched to this Ranger as the front glides confidently over a set of whoops, at speed. However, when steering I feel some strange action. Turn in and hold steering angle. The truck starts turning, when the body roll catches up with track there's even more turn to be found. Body roll under-steer. While observing the truck up on the lift, back at the shop we inspect steering arm pivot points. The drag link and tie rods pivot several inches away from the point where the beams pivot. (diagram to the right illustrates the factory set-up well) The tie rod lengths are mismatched. Theoretily the tie rod length and arm length should be the same length in order to eliminate bump steer.

As a solution we've opted to design a center-link type setup using a center link bar with idler arm, and 2 tie rods. The center-link design gives a place to mount the right side tie rod when the the correct length is used. Bronze oil impregnated bushings are used on the idler arm. Fk JMX series rod ends are used because their rated static radial load is 8,000 pounds greater than the best comparing rod end. All Grade 8 FNL bolts are located in triple shear for strength, except the mondo idler arm bolt which is 3/4 Gr. 8 in double shear. (Please look past the spilled coolant and over greased zerks in the pics!)

Another short jog to the trail comfirms a job well done. Confidence is greatly increased with steering consistency regardless of body roll. Now it just needs a set of Kings in the rear to keep the tail planted through the whoops!

Project Blazer

1. Tear out the IFS.

2. Convert to Dana 44 Front Axle with custom lift.

3. Build interior cage.

And ????

A bit of exhaust work too!

K5 Blazer trail prep

An old time friend has presented us with this Grape Chevrolet K5 Blazer to stick some metal on. Its a 1981 4x4 with Dana 44 front axle and a Corp 14 bolt rear axle. Thus far we've installed our shackle flip kit, W.P. edition heavy duty TIG welded 5.5 shackles(not pictured), 3" lift Pro Comp front springs, and a set 38" skinny TSL Boggers. Round tube and 1/4 plate is currently being fit on all sides. This rig is expected to mash the rocks at Rubicon Trail, and take the kids Escobar Training Grounds. Observe as we prepare this grape monster.

F100 bench fab

Recently I've been forced to replace or otherwise re-invent a couple of parts for the beloved F100 project. Pictured are the engine side of TMS made motor mounts for the 351 Ford Cleavland motor, and rear cab mounts. enjoy.

The Gladiator wb intro

While this lustrous 1968 Jeep Gladiator J10 has been aspirating since the beginning of Tahoe Motorsports, it's only recent that we've been making progress. Senior Jefe Dean's Rock crawler will see full mountain duty. He wants to jog the Rubicon trail, speed runs in the dunes, and make "b ee rr un" for the shop, so speed and maneuverability are paramount concerns. With a race ready roll cage it's now a unibody. Whats left of the body is droped about 2", the Chevrolet big block is also low slung and way back.

F-100 center K-member

The center "K" member to the F-100 frame is done. Its made from 1.5x.120 HREW round
tube and 1.5x .75x .120 square-ish tube. And there's a drive shaft loop, too.

Impreza air conditioning

The Subaru Legacy air conditioning system low side has been difficult in the swap. The bump style O-ring fitting at the evaporator is different from Impreza to Legacy.





...and so are the fittings at the pump.







Cut the Factory crimp off the Impreza evaporator side to reveal teeth like the ones found on other hose connections. Keep the legacy pump side plus rubber a/c hose, cut rubber to length. Remember to clock it, crimp it.





Install it.
This A/c system is made of Legacy HVAC electronic control/heater box, Impreza A/C evaporator, Impreza inlet box with roll cage mod, Legacy condenser, Legacy high side lines and TMS modified low side line.

Refrigerator Type R

Shelf Bracket Thing. 3/4 holes with dimple edges.

Roof removal

I gutted the entire car prior to cage fab. Since this car were to be fit with sill bars the main hoop cant drop down to weld the top. Solution: take off the roof. I recruited Gabe who loves to hang out at TMS instead of his corporate mechanic job. He did the tedious job of drilling the 800 spot welds that held the roof skin on. Cheers to you Gabe!

I found this spot weld cutter on sale at Harbor Freight for $2. Though I'd give it a try, since these cutters are near $20 on the tool trucks. That was over a year ago, and I finally had to flip the cutting edge after almost 2 cars worth of roll cage prep. Meanwhile the top of the cage was finished and the roof is ready to go back on.

Start with one corner and fill a couple holes








Oh snap! The origional cut spot weld don't line up on the second
corner!







Adjust.

Bueno!

Keep jumping corners and gaps to stick the roof back on, then bend some more tube.





I have a poor attention span so about half of the roof is spot welded back on. I've moved on to other parts of the cage/swap. I think I'll just put it off until the glass is ready to go back in. Oh and remember to seal the F... er, i mean rain out of the length of the seam.

Back to work.

GC Impreza

Here's another Masterpiece nearing completion. It's a 93 Impreza L, came to TMS as my car, but I've decided to let it go to my home Nig-ita Rafael. After a small power-slide accident, on our favorite local dirt road, his bugeye WRX was laid to rest. Soon after Rafael came across a 1991 Subaru Legacy Sport with 2.2l turbo, 5 speed, and ABS. He logged some flight time and proved the Legacy chassis wasn't quite fit for him either, so we've decided to swap the EJ22t and drivetrain into the little red GC. Our intern Jessee has been the relentless swap master of all the Legacy body and engine harness'. I've been erecting the roll cage following FIA specifications, however using 1026 DOM tubing. The cage is built with .120" wall thickness throughout. 1.75" diameter was use for the main hoop, front lateral hoops, fore-head, rear down, door, sill, seat belt and A-pillar re-inforcement bars. 1.5" inch diameter tube was used everywhere else, still thick wall .120".

The cab is going to chill for a short while here on the floor. All in all, the cab is in good condition. Very little rust and a hand full of Bondo on one corner. Although purchased from Northern California this truck must have been Joe Dirt's weekend hauler. The 351C had a custom home compliments to a pair of 1" washers on either side that made an engine cross-member sandwich. Anywho, it was sent out to the sandblaster only to uncover more cracks and desire to make new frame rails. But were in it too deep for not keeping the frame. So a compromise was made and more stock cross-members were ditched, most of the holes filled, and I boxed the rails most of the way back. Whats left of the rails are now on the table, jigged up for cross-member fab.

the f100

Here's a long term high end build the F100. Stay tuned and watch the tale unfold...

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